A green pool is dramatic, but almost always fixable in 3–5 days with the right method. We use the SLAM method — Shock Level And Maintain — the same protocol recommended by Trouble Free Pool (TFP) and most pros.
Before you start: test everything
- Free chlorine: will be near zero
- CYA: critical — determines your shock target
- pH: lower to 7.2 before starting (chlorine works faster in slightly acidic water)
- Filter condition: clean it first — a clogged filter can't help you
The SLAM protocol
- Raise free chlorine to the SLAM level for your CYA (see table).
- Test FC every 2–4 hours during the day. Re-dose to maintain SLAM level.
- Brush the entire pool daily, especially corners and steps.
- Run the filter 24/7.
- Vacuum dead algae to waste as it drops.
- Continue until: CC < 0.5 ppm, overnight FC loss < 1 ppm, water is crystal clear.
SLAM target by CYA
| CYA (ppm) | Maintain FC at (ppm) |
|---|---|
| 30 | 12 |
| 40 | 16 |
| 50 | 20 |
| 60 | 24 |
| 80 | 31 |
Timeline
- Day 1: Pool turns from green to cloudy gray. You're winning.
- Day 2–3: Cloudy gets lighter. Dead algae on the bottom.
- Day 3–5: Water clears. Pass the three SLAM completion tests.
Don't fall for algaecide
“Quick algaecide” products work on light, early algae — but a fully green pool needs real chlorine levels. Algaecide with a SLAM-level chlorine pool just foams up and wastes money.
It's green but my chlorine reads fine
This is the most common version of the call, and it is almost never a bad test kit. A chlorine number on its own means very little — what matters is that number relative to your stabilizer.
- CYA lock is the usual answer.Chlorine's killing power scales against CYA, so 3 ppm of free chlorine at CYA 30 is a working pool and the same 3 ppm at CYA 100 is effectively unsanitized water. If your stabilizer crept past 80, no realistic shock target exists and the honest fix is a partial drain and refill first. The mechanism is in our cyanuric acid guide.
- Phosphates are feeding it faster than you can kill it. After heavy rain, or on a pool topped up with reclaimed-irrigation overspray, phosphate load can outrun a correct chlorine level. You hold SLAM and it still greens. See phosphate control.
- It might be dead algae, not live algae. Water that went from green to a dull gray-green haze while chlorine held is usually killed algae still in suspension. That is a filtration and vacuum-to-waste problem, not a chemistry one — keep the filter running and stop adding chlorine you do not need.
- Mustard algae gets misdiagnosed as green constantly. If it brushes off easily, sits in shade, and returns in the same spot within a day, you are fighting the wrong organism at the wrong target. Go to mustard algae.
- Green water with genuinely clear water is not algae at all — that is dissolved metal, usually copper or iron, and chlorine will not touch it.
You shocked it twice and it's still green
Shocking twice and getting nowhere almost always means one of six things, and none of them is “needs more shock”:
- You never reached breakpoint — the dose was sized to the label, not to your CYA.
- You reached it once and let it fall. A single dose that decays overnight is not a SLAM; the level has to be held.
- CYA is above 80, so there is no reachable target. Drain and refill first.
- The filter was never cleaned, so you are killing algae and immediately recirculating it.
- Algaecide went in instead of chlorine, and now the water foams.
- It is mustard, not green, and mustard needs a higher hold and every piece of pool gear disinfected or it comes straight back.
How fast can this actually clear?
Three to five days is the honest answer for a fully green pool, and the two things that move it are pump turnover and filter capacity — not how much chlorine you throw at it. A 24-hour turnaround happens, but on a mild bloom with a clean filter and a pump sized to the pool, not on a swamp. Anyone promising an overnight fix on a pool you cannot see the second step of is selling you something.
The limiting factor after the algae is dead is almost always filtration: the water is full of suspended dead cells and the filter has to physically remove them. That is why a pool can pass its chlorine tests and still look terrible on day three. If you would rather hand the whole thing over, our green pool cleanup service covers the recovery end to end.
Prevention: why it happened
Green algae shows up when free chlorine drops below the minimum FC/CYA ratio for too long. Common causes: CYA crept up past 80 ppm, tablet feeder ran out during a vacation, salt cell stopped producing, or heavy storm diluted everything below threshold. Find and fix the root cause or you'll be doing this again in 3 weeks.
Frequently asked questions
SLAM stands for Shock Level And Maintain. You raise free chlorine to the SLAM level for your CYA, test and re-dose every two to four hours during the day, brush the whole pool daily, run the filter 24/7, and vacuum dead algae to waste. You hold that level until the pool passes all three completion tests.
Your target scales with your CYA. At CYA 30 maintain free chlorine at 12 ppm, at 40 hold 16, at 50 hold 20, at 60 hold 24, and at 80 hold 31 ppm. That is why testing CYA first is critical: it determines your shock target.
Stop only when the pool passes all three SLAM completion tests: combined chlorine under 0.5 ppm, overnight free chlorine loss under 1 ppm, and water that is crystal clear. Passing all three at once means the algae is dead and the pool is holding chlorine.
On day one the pool turns from green to cloudy gray, which means you are winning. Days two and three the cloudiness lightens and dead algae settles on the bottom. Between day three and five the water clears and passes the three completion tests.
Green algae shows up when free chlorine drops below the minimum FC-to-CYA ratio for too long. Common causes are CYA creeping past 80 ppm, a tablet feeder running out during a vacation, a salt cell that stopped producing, or a heavy storm diluting everything below threshold. Fix the root cause or you will be doing this again in about three weeks.
Yes. Lower pH to 7.2 before you start, because chlorine works faster in slightly acidic water. Also clean the filter first, since a clogged filter cannot help you clear the water, and confirm free chlorine is near zero and CYA is measured so you know your shock target.
Want a pro to handle this?
Our CPO-certified techs run this exact playbook on every weekly service visit.

