Pool Heater Repair & Replacement

It depends on the failure. We diagnose first and quote in writing before any parts are ordered. A small fix — a flow problem from a dirty filter, a sensor, an igniter — is inexpensive. Major component replacement is where the math changes: a new heat exchanger or compressor typically runs $4,000–$5,000, and a full new heater runs about $5,000–$7,000. When the repair gets that close to a replacement, we'll tell you honestly that a new, more efficient unit is the better spend.

Nine times out of ten it's the simplest thing: a dirty filter. A clogged filter chokes off water flow, and almost every heater needs proper flow to fire and stay running — so we pull the cartridge and run the system before anything else. The other big one in South Florida is cold weather: heat pumps pull warmth from the air, so a cold snap can stop one from heating (a gas or electric-resistance heater still works). After flow, we read the error code to pinpoint the fault.

Yes — all major brands: Hayward, Raypak, Pentair, AquaCal, Jandy, and more, across heat pumps, gas heaters, and solar. Error codes vary by brand but the common ones are flow faults (often a code in the 100s) and HP/high-pressure — both of which frequently trace back to the filter. We diagnose the specific brand and model, then quote the exact parts.

Run the math. A new heater is roughly $5,000–$7,000; replacing a heat exchanger or compressor is about $4,000–$5,000. When the repair costs that much, you're better off putting the money toward a new, more efficient unit. And if the heater is 15+ years old, replace it regardless — old copper heat exchangers can deteriorate to where they're no longer safe for your pool water. Repairing a heater older than ~10 years is usually a bad investment.

Heat pumps dominate here — South Florida stays warm enough year-round that they're the cheapest, most consistent way to heat a pool, and far more efficient than gas. The catch is they lose effectiveness during a cold snap. Gas heats fastest and works in any weather, so it wins for spas/hot tubs and anyone who wants the pool hot in a hurry regardless of operating cost. Electric-resistance heaters work cold but are expensive to run and the salt air destroys them. Solar is cheap to run but can leak onto and damage your roof and may void roof warranties.

Usually not. Nine times out of ten a little water on the pad is just condensation. But if it's a lot of water clearly coming from the unit, that often points to a failed heat exchanger, which typically means a new heater. If you can physically see it leaking, shut your pool pump off and call us — running it can make the damage worse.

Yes. An annual heater cleaning or tune-up runs $150–$350. We open the housing, clear debris and nesting insects, check the burner or coil, and protect the heat exchanger. Paired with balanced water, it's the cheapest way to keep a heater going for decades instead of replacing it early.

Yes. We size and install new heat pumps and gas heaters under our CPC license. Most new heaters run $5,000–$7,000 installed, including removal of the old unit, with any new gas line or electrical circuit quoted separately. You get one written price before anything is ordered.

With balanced water and a yearly cleaning, heaters can last 10–15 years. With bad chemistry they can fail in 2–3. Too-acidic water etches the heat exchanger; too-basic water calcifies and closes off the pipe. The other silent killer is bad installation — an oversized heater or a mis-used diverter valve forcing too much water through a unit (a 3-inch line into a 2-inch heater rated for ~70 GPM) swells and blows the heat exchanger, and can blow your pump too. We check chemistry, sizing, and plumbing as part of every heater visit.